Wild Atlantic Way – Day 14

The changes I was forced to make to the route, after my bike started breaking, meant that I ended up well ahead of schedule.

That, in turn, means that the last few days of my ride were going to be very short days. As I write this, I’m only 50 miles from Galway – that’s a single day’s ride.

I had a lazy start to the day, with breakfast from a petrol station in Milltown Malbay. After having raved about how good the food offerings at Irish petrol stations are, I must say that Malbay didn’t get the memo!

County Clare offered more of the sort of terrain that wouldn’t leave you surprised if Bilbo Baggins came walking by. Despite not being mountainous, the hills are often steep, and can be relentless.

The views when you crest a hill are so worth it though! Soon enough I cycled through Lahinch. That entire area, though undeniably pretty, seems geared up exclusively at tourist.

I do feel for the local Irish people, as it’s clear that (much like parts of Cornwall in the UK) during the high season they would be overrun with tourists. Yes, tourism probably underpins the local economy, but there’s a huge price to pay for that success.

My route took me inland again, along very rural lanes that I expect sees few tourists. I was heading towards the Atlantic and knew that I was close to the famous Cliffs of Moher.

Actually, I knew that because my route took me inland, I would only see some of the cliffs. When I crested that last hill, the view was breathtaking. I could see the Aran islands straight ahead, with the mountains of Connemara straight ahead, across the bay of Galway.

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I descended into Doolin, where I booked into a camp site, for a very reasonable €12. I desperately needed a shower and a shave!


To be in with a chance of winning John Devoy’s fantastic book, Quondam, you need to answer all the questions that I post on a daily basis.

Here’s today’s question: In Ireland it is usual to have a coalition government. What political parties presently form the government, and who is the current Taoiseach? (leader of the government)? Hint; he is a medical doctor, and has the star-sign of ‘Leo!’

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