18 Castles is a multi-day cycle touring route guide, and if old, or ancient buildings are your thing, then you will love this route. Even if you’re not into castles that much, this route showcases some of the best riding Devon has to offer.
Set entirely within Devon, as is usual for my GoCycle routes, it’s a circular route. The route starts, and ends in Plymouth, but you can just as easily start and end in Exeter. At 163 miles, you can ride it over three, or four days, but I have to warn you from the outset that there are some very steep climbs.
So, 18 castles along the route?
Well, yes. But also no! I’m using the word “castle” quite generically here. You see, a castle is (or was) also a residence, usually of some or the other lord, or royalty. However, on this route I also include military forts, which strictly speaking aren’t castles.
In addition, the castles on the route vary from in excellent state of repair, to being in ruins. One castle only has part of one of an original four towers left. Some castles are open to the public, despite being privately owned, some are owned by English Heritage, and some by the National Trust. Some castles are privately owned, and not open to the public.
The castles
Crownhill Fort
Crownhill Fort is the first stop on the route. The fort is in excellent state of repair, and if you really wanted to, you could stay there overnight. Click here for more details about the fort.
Lydford Castle
The next one is Lydford Castle. The castle is actually an old prison, and even for its time, apparently an exceptionally brutal one. It retained the “castle” name, as the prison was built on the remains of an older castle. The castle is owned by English Heritage. Lydford is at one end of the Granite Way, with Okehampton at the other end.
Okehampton Castle
After Lydford, you’ll ride to Okehampton Castle. Partly in ruins, it is supposedly one of the most haunted places in the UK. Having said that, when I camped overnight, there were no signs of ghosts! English Heritage owns this castle.
Castle Drogo
Castle Drogo is next on the list, and it’s the new kid on the block. Despite it’s very old appearance, construction only started in 1910. The National Trust owns and manages Castle Drogo.
Not officially part of the route, but quite close to Castle Drogo there is Prestonbury Castle, and Wooston Castle. These are the remains of two iron age hillforts, but there’s a brutal hill to get to them.
Exeter Castle
Exeter Castle is next, but with limited access. Today, the castle is a wedding venue, amongst other things, and it’s in good shape.
Powderham Castle
Nearby is Powderham Castle. Seat of the Earl of Devon, the castle grounds are open to the public. The castle is in excellent condition.
Bonus hillfort
Another unofficial bonus is Castle Dyke, also the remains of an iron age hillfort. This one is circular in shape, though all that remains are undulating remains of the earth walls and the surrounding ditch.
Compton Castle
Compton Castle is your next destination. Owned by The National Trust, the castle is in great condition, and is open to the public.
Berry Pomeroy Castle
Berry Pomeroy Castle is the next stop. The castle is in ruins, but the walls are mostly intact. Ironically, the existence of Berry Pomeroy Castle made the nearby Totnes Castle less desirable as a residence.
Berry Head
Berry Head is not a castle, but actually two military forts. You’ll be visiting the Northern Fort, with the Southern Fort nearby, as an extra option. Each fort was capable of functioning independently, and even had it’s own well.
Kingswear Castle
Kingswear Castle compliments the defences of Dartmouth Castle, and despite the name was really a fort. Its owned by the same organisation who owns Crownhill Fort, and it’s available to book as a private holiday residence. It is not open to the public, and cycling along the access lane (a private road) is forbidden.
Millbay Fort
Very close to Kingswear Castle you will find Millbay Fort, which is a substantial ruin. Public access is permitted along the lane leading to it, but cycling is explicitly forbidden. There is no public access to the fort itself, following recent work to stabilise it.
Bayard’s Cove Fort
Across the river Dart, you will visit Bayard’s Cove fort. It’s open to the public, but has no roof. English Heritage owns and manages the fort, with free access.
Dartmouth Castle
Nearby is the 600 year old Dartmouth Castle. Again, despite the name, the castle was a military fortification. With superb estuary views, English Heritage owns the castle, and it is open to the public.
Totnes Castle
Totnes Castle is a traditional Norman motte and bailey castle. English Heritage owns and operates this castle, too. It’s open to the public, and the views from the ramparts, on a clear day, are breath-taking.
Plympton Castle
Plympton Castle is another Normal motte and baily castle, though significantly smaller than Totnes Castle. It dates from the time when the manor of Plymton was an important town, while Plymouth was a simple fishing village.
Plymouth Castle
The remains of Plymouth Castle is the following stop. Once an impressive four-tower structure, all that remains is the outside of one of the towers. If you asked the average Plymothian where Plymouth Castle was, they’re most likely to point you to the Royal Citadel instead!
Royal Citadel
The last stop is the Royal Citadel. This is a large fortress, built originally to the (by then) well-established five-pointed star shape. The fortress was extended, and it remains a functioning military base. Occasionally, limited access tours are permitted, but mostly it is off-limits to the public.
English Heritage
This route visits a significant number of castles managed by English Heritage. At most of those, you will need to pay admission, but English Heritage members gain free entry. As a result, it might be worth your while considering joining English Heritage.